Cantina Italiana

The Scene
A loyal, local clientele and a steady stream of tourists have kept business booming at this popular restaurant since 1931. While there are fancier, more modern establishments in the North End, few places provide such an untainted old-world atmosphere. Congenial waiters clearly take pride in their service, and the dining room's cozy booths provide an ideal setting for enjoying the restaurant's special homemade bombolotti (wagon wheel) pasta.

The Food
The kitchen's extensive menu rarely veers off the red-sauce highway. But diners seldom complain after digging into heaping plates of buffalo-mozzarella salad and baked ziti. Start with a filling plate of garlic crostini topped with shrimp and vegetables, before moving on to a delicate vegetable risotto or a hulking veal T-bone (which benefits from a savory port-wine sauce). Leave room for sinful desserts, including a homemade lemon-zest cannoli or a slice of cappuccino-mousse cake.